C. Johnson
One Guest at a Time
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A rainy evening brought us, four weary hikers, to Gorska Roža.
The promise of shelter turned into something deeper: an experience of care and connection. Matija’s warm welcome made us forget the cold, and Katja’s handmade breakfast reminded us of the power of simplicity and integrity. When we left, the rain was still falling, but our spirits were lifted. Kindness lingers, one guest at a time.
As we made our way up the narrow Koritnica river gorge towards the village of Log pod Mangartom a steady cold rain reminded us that winter was not far off. We were four women in our early 70’s, on the 16th day, of a 20-day hike around Slovenia’s Julian Alps.
By now we had grown accustomed to the trail’s predictable rhythm: climb steeply up through hardwood forests, cross an alpine meadow or two, head steeply down into another exquisite river valley. In this part of Slovenia, the rivers and streams really are an otherworldly color. Due to heavy limestone deposits, they appear a milky turquoise green. Most days it was a treat to walk along their banks. However, on this particularly chilly rain-soaked afternoon we weren’t pausing for photos, or lingering over lunch, we were only thinking about arriving at our accommodations, taking a hot shower, and finding food. Matija, a slender man in his early thirties whose glasses lend him a studious air, invited us out of the rain and into the reception area. His warm and enthusiastic welcome filled the room, so much so that I forgot that I was cold. The next morning it was still raining steadily, on the verge of turning to sleet. Not exactly enticing weather to hike up to a mountain pass.
The four of us tossed around the idea of hitching a ride or finding a bus. Walking on a paved road for 6 miles in the pouring rain was nobody’s idea of a good time. As soon as we were seated in a cozy dining area with simple wooden tables covered in blue and white checked cloths, Matija appeared with a steaming pot of strong black coffee. Katja, in her late twenties with a bright smile and lovely poise followed behind with a tray of freshly baked bread, sweet plum jam, apple juice and creamy yogurt, all homemade from locally sourced ingredients. The morning was passing quickly, and if we were going to walk on to the next town, we knew we should get going. Truthfully, we could have stayed all day talking to these two young hosts. Their passion and commitment to the earth, their village, and their dream was palpable and infectious. As avid long-distance walkers we needed no convincing about the value of slow tourism, and our fears for the earth’s future match theirs, but their youth, integrity, and spirit gave us hope. When we asked what inspired them to take on the challenge of running a guest house, they told us a couple of stories from their own travels. Each story focused on the kindness of someone they encountered, someone who went just a little out of their way to help them. “One act of kindness changes everything” said Matija. “We want to extend such kindness to all our guests.” They certainly did to us. Sometimes change happens one relationship, one kindness, one guest at a time.
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